Yohji Yamamoto Manswear collection Spring Summer 2019

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2019 S/S Men’s Fashion: if on the one hand all the runways have amazed in Milan for the reference to an increasingly younger fashion target, as if it were a fault to age or prove to be such, (D&G aside that remains true to their concept fashion …), so it was also for the fashion shows seen in Paris.

Among the few exceptions, in the Parisian fashion shows, Yohji Yamamoto reassures us.

 First of all, it is a pleasure to see men parading during the Men’s Fashion Week, rather than just graduates who should be the new beauty standards. Proposing men to be as handsome as 18-year-olds is slightly anachronistic and frustrating for the latter, considering that the fit and fitting of a forty-year-old certainly can not be the same as a young and shaved boy 

We should make more commercial evaluations than aesthetics, considering the purchasing power of the new millennials, to which all the fashion houses seem to wring the eye lately.

Far from the concept of ephebic or androgynous, men’s fashion is actually oriented more and more towards creating a clear border between classic men (who will surely go shopping at Ermenegildo Zegna, Zara and similar) and men with Peter Pan syndrome who will wear oversized t-shirts and nylon pants. Apart from the style offices and creative designers, I would like to see the total looks proposed by the Maison, in the offices of banks or in similar professional situations.

Yohji Yamamoto

At theYohji Yamamotofashion show, protagonists are therefore unstructured jacket and trousers, long skirts, chemisier and black, new and extravagant shapes, but of sure beauty and effect. Jackets with cut hinges and small glimpses of prints that can be glimpsed from strategic holes until you reach an exploit of complete prints characterized by the delicacy of Japanese portraits.

The white, the fuchsia and the violet up to touches of red and yellow are all rigorously used as shoulders of the only actor: the black. Prints, maxi shirts and a great skill in mixing the different types of fabric used, to pack a definitely elegant and futuristic result, free from market logic (but not too much). Watch the fashion show on Vogue


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