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Giugno 2018: uno sguardo alla Fashion week di Milano – SS19 Uomo

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tempo di lettura: 8 minuti

Fashion shows June 2018

What did Italian designers have proposed for the Spring 2019 collection in Milan?

The Milan fashion week has just ended with regard to the man proposals for the next spring-summer of 2019.

 This time in the Milan catwalks we did not see the usual show of different ideas and proposals from the most famous Maison, but almost a union of the cartel or a common front of ideas (apart from some outsider).. 

Keyword is  Sportwear & Denim. 

Proposed in all its forms, denim and sportwear, characterized by nostalgic features of the eighties and nineties, were the new DIKTAT.. 

Below is a selection of some fashion shows on which to put the accent and a small magnifying glass

Tom Fordtom ford ss19

The straight sexy man who returns to wear with sobriety the spotted and the zebra in pony, for jackets and moccasins, bags and baby carriers. Pale pink bomber on classic black pants and ankle boots with heels, this is Tom Ford’s proposal. A designer who exudes sensuality to each collection and that in this 2019 resort seems to want to find a meeting point between the man of the 2000s and the millennials. A fluid gender style that contaminates the DNA of the Maison.  Watch the fashion show on Vogue 

dondupDondup

Welcome youth and carefree. This is the proposal that seems to me to have proposed for its SS 2019 the brand, showing off 80s-cut jeans, outfits composed of jumper, shirt and denim trousers alternated with cotton jackets, sweaters and leather jackets. It seems that the mood of the collection is Martyn McFly’s style of the famous film “Back to the Future” . A youthful, casual, nostalgic and casual fashion that plays with stripes and colors, adding a touch of modernity with maxi bags and backpacks. Watch the fashion show on Vogue

Dsquared2dsquared2

The triumph of the confusion and the militar cargo, combined with corsets for women and vests for men, all completed with sneakers, now very fashionable, for a target very little identified. What can you wear in the morning? A little ‘what happens to you and that you find inside the closet, as long as it has the military colors and oversized sizes. Here too the return of the baby carrier, icons of the 90sWatch the fashion show on Vogue

Giorgio Armani Giorgio Armani

Palazzo pants, wide-brimmed hats and metropolitan cowboy style, this was the beginning of King George’s fashion show, to then continue with the chic style of the grape-harvester at rest. Oversized jackets and cardigans and sweaters elaborated in weaving and using color degradation as well as geometric patterns. Refinement and lightness, both for fabrics and colors, this is the message of the Maison, with the riot of denim used for outerwear and jackets. The real revolution in progress is a comfortable and not forced fashion proposal in plastered clothes with a constipated fitting and an admirable return to the 90s. Watch the fashion show on Vogue

FendiFENDI

Surely the fil rouge of the presented collection is the red color, like the love for Rome celebrated in the sweaters with the anagram “Amor” that, reading it on the contrary, means just Rome. 90’s? Here too, with the use of baby carriers, shorts, shoulder bags and the classic Fendi logo, proposed on shirts, trousers and jackets. The color palette is yellow, white and brown and oversized sizes. Watch the fashion show on Vogue

no.21No.21

Fluid and counter-tendent, the No.21 proposal is characterized by riding the wave of fluid gender mixing garments and matching jackets with shorts. No baby carriers and back to the 90s, and less sportswear and sneakers. Thankfully Alessandro dell’Acqua has reversed the trend of this fashion week, proposing a formal style but revisited in a contemporary key.  Watch the fashion show on Vogue

Pal Zileripal zileri

Classic and timeless, the parade of Pal Zileri, influenced a bit ‘from the 90s but without making it a leite motive. Classic cuts mixed with oversized sizes. A formal classic revisited but discreetly, without losing personality and character as demonstrated by the use of striped and damask printsWatch the fashion show on Vogue

PRADA

Perfectly in line with the trend towards the use of 90s denim, Miuccia Prada this time amazes for the chic use of shapes and colors with references to the micro shapes and sizes of the 70s. An exploit of shorts combined with jackets and intense colors  This time Miuccia reappropriates the title of Holy Designer of innovation  but with wearability and portability, appropriating the trends of the millennials but not succumbing to them or mercilising their category, rather re-proposing them in a sophisticated key, as is the taste that luxury is. Trousers without folds and slim cut; dust coats and elegant jackets in suede leather; and some large, slightly dusty-looking jeans. Denim is now officially cool again.
 Watch the show on Vogue

Etro

Always equal to itself, (I do not know if it’s a good or a bad thing), an outsider of Italian fashion that keeps its stylistic features and its identity. Etro proves to be naive and classically loyal to its customers without the hysterical fear of having to introduce artifices from millennials in its collections. Watch the fashion show on Vogue

MSGMMSGM

Andiamo tutti a comandare” rsaid the song by Fabio Rovazzi or we all go to Rimini in the fabulous 80/90 years. So we move from the sweatshirts with the prints of “Mila and Shiro”, fabulous Japanese manga, fluorescent colors, shorts and mix & match everything you can find in your closet   The Maison is perfectly in line with the sportwear trend seen and reviewed on these Milan catwalks, and with a clear focus on the target of young people to whom he certainly turns. Only Cindy Lauper was missing and then the reunion would have been perfect!  Watch the fashion show on Vogue

Marcelo BurlonMarcelo Burlon Country of Milan

If there is a stylist of reference for the new millennials and who is no longer such but hopes to be, it is Marcelo Burlon. A riot of fluorescent colors, stripes and zippers. His collection is the fifth essence of fluid gender sportswear. Items that can perfectly be worn by anyone regardless of gender. A streatwear that perfectly matches the sportwear and the 80s, which is characterized not only by the total look but by an ingenious strategy: to sell a concept, a fashion idea and a clear target that will then buy the individual pieces on the shelves . On the catwalk also the sunglasses born from the collaboration with Linda Farrow, a backpack, a gymbag and a pouch in cobranding with Eastpak and a capsule of clothing and accessories inspired by the film Close Encounters of the Third Kind by Steven Spielberg. Watch the fashion show on Vogue

VersaceVersace

Pinstripes, denim and Moschino style pop logos. Versace’s proposal draws a bit from the 70s for the use of floral prints and ultra-slim sizes, going through the 80s, with fluorescent colors and t-shirt with logo to complete the whole with combinations of shiny leather shorts and typical prints of the Maison. A compromise in recent years, but loses a bit ‘of personality and identity.  Watch the fashion show on Vogue

MarniMarni

Prints and stripes, sizes that do not need a tailor, but comfortable oversize in jackets and sweaters with ultra-long sleeves. The proposal for Marni’s spring 2019 combines the joy of colors and prints with comfort. A game, in short, subtle between the DNA of the Maison and the orientation to the business. Watch the fashion show on Vogue

Dolce & Gabbana

Opulence and Baroque classicism, the classic perfect combination of the Brand that strikes us to be a voice out of the chorus among all the Brands participating in this MFW. No denim used in a modern way, no reference to fluorescent colors and above all no other sportswear. Their proposal, as always, is among the highest steps of luxury, with refined fabrics, elaborate and sometimes entertaining prints, but above all celebrating the concept of family, regardless of gender. A male target, trying to take different age groups and different geolocalizations, from America to Sicily, passing through Milan. A show that offers different occasions of use and different styles, but consistently grouped under the name of the Maison. This is what fashion should do: try to please everyone, but always with style. On the other hand, however, the risk of looking like a collage of the different shows is just around the corner.
 Watch the show on Vogue

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